Rating: ★★☆☆☆

Address: 12 St George Street, W1S 2FB

Telephone: +44 (0)20 7758 9160

http://www.arbutusrestaurant.co.uk/

As I am a big fan of the brilliant, friendly Soho restaurant Arbutus, I decided to visit its Michelin one-starred Mayfair sister restaurant, Wild Honey, one Sunday afternoon. Certain features of Wild Honey’s interior remind me of an ancient college library, with its long marble tables, wooden chairs and wood panelling creating a classical yet relaxing set up.

The restaurant offers 3 courses for £19.95 at lunchtime, but the selection was rather ordinary, with potato soup/ terrine for appetisers and ox-tongue/ silver mullet for main course, so we opted for the à la carte menu instead.

(1) For the appetiser, I had the Warm smoked eel, crisp chicken wings (boneless). The eel had a fantastic smokey taste and a firm texture, and the sweetcorn paste had an awesome flavour. However, while the the boneless chicken wing had a nice crunch, it verged on dry and overcooked.

(2) The Soft poached egg with wild mushrooms, also an appetiser, was my favourite course of the meal. The egg has been perfectly poached and the smoked onion velouté was warm and indulgent. I also adored the velvety texture of the mushrooms.


(3) For the main course, I ordered the Grilled piece of beef, bone marrow gratin, Swiss chard and beetroot. (As per my request, the chef has kindly removed beetroot from my dish, as despite its many nutritional benefits, I refuse to ingest that eerie, purple piece of vegetable!) The beef was all right, but not spectacular. The bone marrow melted adoringly in my mouth, but was a bit overwhelming when served with a generous portion of steak. To put it simply, if I ever come to Wild Honey again, I would not order the same thing.

While I adored the creative combinations of ingredients and the contemporary twist in the menu, the execution of dishes needs a massive improvement. I wish them the best of luck, and hope that they can keep their one Michelin star in 2013!