Rating: ★★★☆☆

Address: 1/F, 4-8 Arbuthnot Road, Central 中環亞畢諾道4-8號1樓

Telephone: 2810 1189

http://wildgrass.hk/

Wild Grass是一家推廣環保及有機食材的法國餐廳,菜式用的都是有機蔬菜及可持續的魚及肉類,亦會運用到動物的所有部份,包括內臟等等,目的是想減少浪費。餐廳室內的氣氛很輕鬆寫意,令人彷如置身在法國鄉村的小屋。Wild Grass的各樣法國菜味道不錯,但有部分簡單的菜式欠缺層次感,還有待改善。晚飯價錢大約每位$400。

Tucked away on Arbuthnot Road from the hustle and bustle of LKF, Wild Grass is a little gem of a restaurant that serves French cuisine prepared with natural, sustainable and organic ingredients and using old-school slow cooking methods. At the top of a narrow staircase reveals a spacious dining room which resembles a country cottage in France; the decor is laid-back and homely, and all the furniture is made with recycled wood.

Wild Grass promotes a “nose to tail” concept, which means that all parts of an animal will be used; this concept is translated into lovely culinary items on the menu, such as the restaurant’s signature oxtail dumplings and stewed kidneys. To the delight of many meat lovers, OBE beef – coming from wild, organic cattle that roam freely on grass in open pastures in the Australian Outback – is served here. The staff at this restaurant were friendly and sincere, making diners feel right at home at this cosy eatery. Given the fine ingredients used at this restaurant, a bill of around $400 per head for dinner is not extortionate at all.

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My meal started with a glass of Citrus Blossom ($95), one of Wild Grass‘ signature cocktails, made with pomelo, orange, lemon, lime, Limoncello and vodka. The tartness of the drink helped lift the summer heat, and the gentle sweetness was balanced by a kick of alcohol.

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Chiming with the restaurant’s eco-friendly theme, our bread was aesthetically served on a wooden block with some spinach and garlic butter on the side.

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(1) Our four appetisers were neatly divided up into small portions for us. The Carpaccio of Amberjack Marinated with Passion Fruit and Green Onions ($138) boasted light and summery flavours, but some olive oil could have helped give the fish a smoother texture. The Home Smoked Scottish Salmon with Grapefruit and Mustard Cress ($128) was satisfyingly tasty, and was made even more interesting by the addition of some wild salmon roe which popped in the mouth. The Leek and Potato Soup with Crème Fraîche and Wild Salmon Roe ($108), cold and creamy, was accomplished. Lastly, the Baked Goat’s Cheese Feuilleté with Pearl Onion, Beetroot Jelly, Rocket and Walnuts ($118) offered a medley of bright, vibrant tastes, with the goat’s cheese melting adoringly in the mouth.

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(2) A tray of Grilled Sea Bream with Fennel, Olives and Potato ($298) looked deceptively simple, yet amazed us with its explosively freshness. The fish flaked perfectly and a herbal taste lingered on the palate. The potatoes and tomatoes were comfortingly delicious.

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(3) The 5-hours Stewed Organic Beef Shin with Garden Vegetables ($298) was buttery soft and tender, and was nicely complemented by an agreeable sauce. However, the dish, while hearty, lacked layering in its flavours.

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(4) The Organic Ox Tongue with Capers and Green Olives ($288) tasted delightful, with a thick, flavourful sauce enhancing the dish’s mellow, soothing flavours.

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(5) Desserts followed, and the Red Berry Summer Pudding with Fromage Blanc ($85) was well balanced, with the bright, citrus taste of fresh berries contrasting with the creaminess of the fromage blanc.

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(6) My favourite, however, had to be the Banana Trifle ($85) – velvety and naturally sweetened by the bananas, each spoonful was utterly terrific.

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Conclusion: Even though some dishes needed a bit more flair, the Provencal cuisine at Wild Grass was overall hearty and delicious; the restaurant’s robust portions and relaxing atmosphere also help make it an ideal venue for a gathering with family and friends. I am very convinced by the nature-friendly philosophy that this restaurant embodies, and I do hope that more organic, sustainable-food restaurants like Wild Grass will spring up in our concrete jungle.