Rating: ★★★★☆

Address:  2/F., 32 Wyndham street, Central 中環雲咸街32號2樓

Telephone: 2565 6788

http://www.fishandmeat.hk/

Happy new year my dear readers and friends! I hope you all had a fabulous time celebrating Christmas and new year! After these crazy two weeks, I am now back to writing my restaurant reviews again!

Simplicity is very trendy at the moment, and many new restaurants around the world now focus on serving simple, non-fussy, delicious foods. Fish and Meat, the new eatery which takes over the space that used to be Sal Curioso (see my review here), embraces the new trend by serving hearty, rustic foods rooted in honest, traditional cooking. As its name suggests, the restaurant’s menu is heavy on seafood and meats. The Head Chef, Russell Doctrove, who has worked at two Michelin three-starred restaurants in the past (at The Waterside Inn in Bray, and at Restaurant Gordon Ramsey on Hospital Road in London), ensures that the kitchen only uses the freshest ingredients sourced directly from farms.

Operated by Maximal Concepts (of Brickhouse, Blue Butcher and PLAY) who are known for their impressively stylish culinary establishments, the decor of Fish and Meat is sleek, yet utterly cosy. Dim lighting, simple colours and furniture made from reclaimed wood imbue the space with the feeling of a Scandinavian dining room.

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The restaurant has been fully booked almost every night since its opening, so we decided to start our dinner at 6pm when it was quieter. I would suggest that you book a table around 2 weeks in advance to avoid disappointment!

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(1) I started the meal with a signature cocktail, Farm house jam ($110). Made with vodka, prosecco and homemade blueberry thyme jam, this drink was clean-tasting and fruity, and was made more interesting by the gooey, grainy texture of the jam.

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(2) The sea urchin bruschetta ($120), covered in a thin film of lard, caused a bit of frenzy on the internet, and many customers raved about this sinfully indulgent dish. While I also found this dish delicious, I wished the lard had more fatty, lardy taste to it.

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(3) With the kitchen making fresh pasta everyday, the soft duck egg raviolo ($110) was simply unmissable. Underneath the thin pasta sheet was a mixture of ricotta cream, burnt sage butter and freshly made pecorino, and it was heavenly! The combination of the uncooked egg yolk, cheeses and pasta was the ultimate enjoyment for me.

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(4) The fresh tagliatelle ($120) was irresistible. The chicken and truffle emulsion was creamy and flavour-packed, and the deep fried crispy chicken skin was incredibly satisfying. My only complaint was that the homemade tagliatelle was a tad too soft (freshly made pasta is usually softer than packaged pasta, and I have already taken this into consideration).

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(5) The sautéed clams ($160), cooked in a white wine and clam emulsion, were tasty. The chili flakes, garlic and pancetta also added exciting flavours to it.

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(6) Even though there were many tasty dishes at Fish and Meat, my favourite had to be the sweet corn polenta ($60). The grainy texture of the polenta offered a pleasing counterpoint against the otherwise buttery and creamy mixture, and each spoonful of it was an unforgettable experience.

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(7) The roasted French turbot ($290), served with carrot purée, brown shrimps and smoked prawn butter, was a beautifully constructed dish. I adored the small, crunchy brown shrimps, but wished the turbot was more tender.

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(8) Peter’s Farm Dutch veal chop “Milanese” ($390) was extravagantly tender and succulent, and the parsley panko, vine tomatoes and chopped arugula offered vibrant and refreshing flavours.

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(9) The Australian Kobe 32oz prime beef rib ($1,280) was a dish to be shared and savoured. The char grilled crust was beautifully done, and the steak was deliciously juicy and full of meaty flavours.

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(10) Our first dessert, the whipped mascarpone “cheesecake” ($80), was very enticing. The shortbread crumble was the perfect companion for the light, fluffy cheese, and the raspberry sorbet’s tartness helped balance out the creaminess of the mascarpone.

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(11) The dark chocolate fondant ($90) is a very popular dessert at restaurants these days, but Fish and Meat has surely nailed their version of it! It was one of the lightest, airiest chocolate fondants I have tried, and the cake was attractively moist. The chocolate flavour was intense, and a swirl of salted caramel sauce made it extra addictive!

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(12) Lastly, the Sicilian lemon tart ($70), served with country clotted cream, arrived. Even though I personally prefer lemon tarts to be more custardy in texture, I still found it very enjoyable.

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I have heard great things from my friends about this new, hip restaurant and I was definitely not disappointed! The combination of a homely ambiance, a selection of thoughtful dishes and friendly staff made my dinner at Fish and Meat one of the most enjoyable meals in the past few months. If you like trying out new restaurants as much as I do, you should definitely add this to your list!