Rating: ★★★★☆

Address: 69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai 灣仔石水渠街69號地下

Telephone: 3182 0128

https://www.stonenullahtavern.com/

Stone Nullah Tavern 是在灣仔”藍屋”對面的新派美式餐廳，用創新的煮法以及新鮮的本地材料來烹調傳統美國菜式。整體而言，食物味道偏濃(不喝酒的話更明顯)，但挺惹味，看得出合夥人和行政總廚Vinny Lauria花了很多心思來設計各樣新穎的菜式。食物份量不算大，但每道菜的價錢不貴，晚飯每人才不過$300至$400左右。

Run by IHM (proprietors of Linguini Fini and Posto Pubblico), Stone Nullah Tavern is the new baby of partner and Executive Chef, Vinny Lauria. Located opposite the Grade 1 Historical Building, Blue House, on Stone Nullah Lane in Wanchai, Stone Nullah Tavern is a hip and upbeat space, with wooden panelling and framed old maps completing its vintage set-up. Stone Nullah Tavern serves “New American fare”, which means American classic dishes re-imagined and re-created using the freshest local ingredients available.

The restaurant has an airy bar area which serves a selection of boutique whiskies, rums and bourbons, as well as American craft beers. The dishes on Stone Nullah Tavern’s food menu have rather unintelligible names, but the hard-working and friendly staff were very happy to brief us on the dishes and give personal recommendations.

(1) We started off with the Foie Burger with caramelized onion marmalade ($170). A soft, sweet and fluffy Hong Kong-style bun was a fantastic partner for the foie gras and the juicy beef patty.

(2) Next, we tried the Crispy Pig’s Ear with chili citronette ($50). The shredded pigs’ ear was extra crispy, and was even more moreish when dipped in the sweet and spicy chili citronette.

(3) Lazyman’s Elote with corn off the cob, chili, sharp cheddar cilantro, butter aioli ($110) was addictive – the crunch of the corn and the creaminess of the butter aioli formed a beautiful textural contrast, while the chili and cheddar cilantro gave it a fiery spicy and sour taste.

(4) The Tater Tots with lardo aioli and sriracha ketchup ($80), i.e. hash browns, paired well with our alcohol, but on their own, they were a tad too salty and overly crunchy.

(5) I have eaten lots of brilliant Mac ‘n’ Cheeses lately (see the one I had at Common Room), and this Mac & Cheese with egg yolk and sharp cheddar ($100) was definitely one of unmissable ones! The incredibly creamy, cheesy sauce was made even more indulgent by the addition of a glossy egg yolk. The flavouring was strong and the taste of cheddar lingered nicely in the mouth.

(6) The Grilled Shrimp with bottarga, confit, tomato, aioli negro ($145) was elegantly presented and the sweet, tangy aioli negro gave it an extra edge. However, the shrimps were a bit small and I wished their texture was more firm.

(7) The Chicken Wings with chili, honey, garlic, ranch ($100) were very satisfying, and the interplay between the sweetness and the spiciness worked magnificently.

(8) The Corned Beef Tongue with fermented cabbage, whole grain mustard, rye ($145) had a lovely, refined taste and a commendable texture.

(9) The “Meat & Potatoes” with tenderloin ragu, spaghetti potatoes ($130), a fun and creative dish, was cooked with marvellously tender beef and a flavour-packed sauce. The crispy spaghetti potatoes gave a gorgeous crunch.

(10) The BBQ’d Bacon with zucchini, charred onion, green chili, garlic, dill & sour cream ($160) was wonderfully grilled, with the very fatty but scrumptious glazed pork melting instantly in the mouth. The layering of the sweetness and the saltiness gave the meat more depth.

(11) Stone Nullah Tavern‘s desserts all sounded absolutely alluring, and we really struggled in deciding which ones to order. The Fat Kid Cake ($75), presented like a piece of birthday cake, consisted of four layers of all-time favourites – red velvet cake, cheesecake, crème brûlée and dark chocolate mousse. Digging into this adorable dessert did make us feel like fat kids fighting over a piece of cake! After the initial excitement was over, however, we found the cake to be a bit unwieldy, with too little crunch to help break up the velvety textures.

(12) Last but not least, the Ovaltine Ice Cream with brûléed banana, chocolate cremoso, peanut butter fudge, cereal crunch ($65) was beyond reproach. Each element – Ovaltine ice cream, the brûléed banana, the peanut butter fudge – was delightful on its own, and when eaten together, tasted utterly sublime.

Conclusion: The innovative and thoughtful “new American fare” at Stone Nullah Tavern seemed very promising. Some of the dishes were a bit small, but after trying a dozen dishes on the menu, the total damage was only around $400 per head including alcohol. The fact that 10% service charge was not automatically added to the bill meant that the waiters worked hard to earn their tips. Even though the dishes were in general a bit too salty, if you are not afraid of bold flavours, this restaurant can serve up a range of gastronomic delights to tantalise your taste buds!