Rating: ★★★★☆

Address: 8/F, Conrad Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場港麗酒店8樓

Telephone: 2521 3838

Email: Brasserie@conrad.com.hk

https://www.conraddining.com/en/brasserie.html

Since I have been so busy the past few months trying out the numerous new restaurants in town, I find my visit to Brasserie on the Eighth, a familiar, long standing restaurant at Conrad Hong Kong, oddly comforting. In warm tones of yellow and gold, this smart casual restaurant is comfortable and unpretentious. The private dining room, which can seat up to twenty diners, is one of my favourite private dining rooms in town as it is subtly luxurious, cosy and intimate.

I have been invited to the restaurant to try a gourmet menu prepared by guest chef Stéphane Gaborieau, from Michelin one-starred restaurant Restaurant le Pergolèse in Paris. He has designed 5-course and 6-course dinner menus showcasing his signature Provence dishes, priced at $1,488 and $1,688 respectively ($1,888 and $2,088 with wine-pairing), which are available for one week from 9 to 15 June 2014. If you have already made dinner plans for this week, you will be delighted to know that 2-course and 3-course set lunches will also be available at $388 and $408 per head!

Even though a feast is awaiting me, I cannot resist the bread basket right in front of me. Some warm, fluffy bread with chilled butter can sometimes be the ultimate indulgence!

There is a lovely open kitchen at the restaurant, but as we are seated inside the private dining room, our host very thoughtfully arrange for a camera to “broadcast” the happenings in the kitchen, with the restaurant manager acting as our dedicated camera man for the night.

(1) The first course that arrives is the Basque style tender sardine fillets marinated in herbs. The sardines are firm and naturally flavourful, and are served with slowly cooked bell peppers and some fresh tomato sherbet. The Mediterranean tones of this dish are well received, and we later find out that the chef comes from Southern France, which helps explain the influence! This dish is paired with a glass of St. Andre de Figuiere Vieilles Vigne Rose Côtes de Provence 2012.

(2) Sometimes French soups can be rather heavy, but this cream of onion with Parmesan chantilly has a medium consistency that is just right. This soup boasts attractive, deep flavours and is completely satisfying.

(3) The Blue Lobster Lasagne, “from Joël Thiébault”, served with shellfish juice and gingers, is an extravagant dish with generous chunks of fine lobster meat. The organic roots “lasagne”, however, can be cooked softer.

The pairing wine is the Mas de Daumas Gassac “Pont de Gassac Blankc” – IGP Pays d’Hérault 2011.

(4) The farmed pigeon cooked in woodcock style is an utter indulgence. Served with beets, spinach napoleon and gingerbread sauce, the meat is wonderfully tender and has a wonderful texture and presentation. The pigeon is paired with Perrin Vacqueyras “Les Christins” 2011.

(5) The Veal Sweetbread Piccata has a top-notch presentation and tastes remarkable. The delicate green asparagus, charlotte potatoes and pearl onions are the perfect companions for such a flavour-packed meat. The Domaine de Triennes “Sante Fluer” Viognier Vin de Pays du Var 2011 is the pairing wine.

(6) The dishes of this set menu are very well portioned, so at this point, I am quite full but not too full for a dessert. The sphere of white chocolate with strawberry soup, with minted white chocolate ganache and pistachios, looks stunning, and the interaction between the strawberries and white chocolate is harmonious. My only complaint is that the white chocolate ganache is too sweet and cloying – perhaps a lighter mousse, cream or ice cream will work better.

The chef is here until Sunday, so do book a table now if you would like to try his culinary creations!